Liminal

It’s been a quiet October in these parts. I don’t have much to say, except that I have been writing but not publishing. Much of my life consists of work and home, with the roads in between, and it is a life lived because of God’s grace.

During the day, I relish the liminal existence lived inside the car. I like the quiet: it feels like a retreat. I listen to myself or to Ezra Klein or the late Tim Keller, whose words still profoundly affect, instruct, and encourage me. There are moments when I like jazz or any music the Spotify algorithm plays next: classical, opera, worship songs, OPM. Meanwhile I pay attention to the wide, sometimes empty roads, which can be deceiving. The haze from the Indonesia fires makes the sunsets in Allah Valley pop. 

(Yesterday I made a careful turn, a motorcycle interrupted me, and without so much as an apology or an acknowledgement that an error had been done, the driver swooshed away, as if nothing happened. I held my tongue and remembered Tim Keller’s preaching on self-control. I also thought that maybe, maybe, the driver could be rushing to the hospital for an emergency. I used to care for a woman with metastatic neck tumor. Her son was a Food Panda driver. I’ve never looked at motorcycles the same way ever again.) 

Fruits from Tatay's trees

I found a basket full of lanzones (Lansium domesticum) on the coffee table in our front porch.

My mother said, "These are from your Tatay's trees." The ones he had planted in New Antique. 

It felt as if Tatay were still alive on this side of eternity, tending to his farm, and hurrying to come back home to cook our lunch.

Solar

I took a break from rounds and observed, with curious eyes, the delegates to the Ornithology annual convention atop the solar panels of General Santos Doctors Hospital. I took the photo last July. The sky was blue and clear. You could fry an egg using sunshine, but the birds didn't mind.

Scenes from home

Terrible heat today, but it rained in the afternoon. Inside the clinic, I overheard the hard, pouring rain that soaked the streets and refreshed tired souls. When I got out, the rain had stopped. I'd missed out on all the fun.

Vigeland Park on a sunny day

The guide says his name, Jacob Gomez, gets a lot of attention from Filipinos who visit Oslo. He says he’s from Argentina. He has lived and worked in Oslo for five years, working a day job in IT and doing city tours on the side.

 

“How is it living here?” I ask as we make our way around the clean, organized city, her pale-skinned, six-footer, smile-back-at-you residents basking in mild sunshine, something that rarely happens in a land where the usual weather is dark and gloomy, the streets lined with snow. 

He says it’s great. I think he means it. “The first time I got here was in December. You know how Christmas is in the movies? It’s like that. Snow everywhere!” he says. 

I relate well to his feeling of alienation and familiarity. I felt the same way when I was in Montreaux, Switzerland in December 2019. My friendHarold and I presented a paper at an immunotherapy conference in Geneva. We did a side trip after the meeting. Snowy villages, mulled wine, potatoes—always potatoes—dripped in melted cheese and chocolate. The scene looked like a Hallmark movie. The stuff of films. It felt magical for us, people from the tropics. Christmas in the Philippines is loud and happy, colorful and extravagant, with plastic pine trees wrapped in lights that could cause fires any time.

I explain to him, as we walk around Frogner Park, at the heart of the Norwegian capital, that Gomez is a common name in our part of the world. “Richard Gomez is a popular actor,” I say. He pretends he knows Richard out of politeness. 

Frogner Park is the site of the Vigelandsanlegget (Vigeland Park), an art installation by Gustav Vigeland. Jacob mentions his name with awe—the man designed the park but never got to see its completion. 

He says Vigeland was a small man, pointing to a life-sized statue towering over us, but he had big dreams. 

All sculptures and designs were to his specifications. 

The Vigeland Sculpture Park contains 212 bronze and granite sculptures depicting the circle of life. I don’t ask Jacob about the Elton John song in the Lion King, because I'm unsure if El Rey León was a hit in his childhood. I say to him instead, “It’s beautiful, isn't it?” pointing to the sculptures of naked men and women and children doing all sorts of poses, and seeing tourists hold the Angry Child’s hand for photo ops. 

 

He says, “I can’t believe I’m doing this, that I’m here.” He radiates contentment, a happy disbelief that I often aspire to, and which sometimes escapes me. “Oslo is a beautiful city. I’m just so happy to be here.”

I listen to the tone of his voice, and I realize he’s not faking it. Here’s a man who is happy in what he does. He must have done these tours a hundred times, but he is happy. 

The tour ends, and he says goodbye. “I just live nearby,” he says, and walks towards a quiet neighborhood, a few meters from the park, where, I imagine, he will spend the rest of the Saturday afternoon in peace and quiet, knowing he is where he should be.

A maremmano walks to me

I tell friends who visit Copenhagen for the first time: "The Little Mermaid is like the Mona Lisa." Meaning: it's just as underwhelming. And similar to the Mona Lisa in Louvre, the best view is not in the object in question—i.e., the famous Little Mermaid bronze statue by Edvard Eriksen, repeatedly damaged and defaced for various reasons—but the areas that surround it. Near the Mermaid is the Copenhagen Opera House at the shore of the Inner Harbor. You'll find wide pathways for humans and humans with bikes. You'll see smartphone-deprived children who play and laugh. One gets the feeling that this is how it is when the government thinks and works and fights for its citizens. The Danes pay the world's highest taxes, but they don't mind.



The breeze is cool, and my feet are tired. I avoid the long queue of tourists awaiting their turn to have a photo with the Mermaid. I sit beside the couple who have lived in the city. They ask me if it's my first time in Copenhagen. I say, no, I've been here many times. They tell me I should take the water taxi to get a better view of the city.

"It's better than these paid city tours, you know?" the wife said.

The dog—white, smiling, unafraid, almost like Appa in the Avatar—leaves his owners behind and slowly makes his way to me, asking to be recognized. I stroke his head, and he smiles.

"Hej," I say to the creature in Danish. The dog does not judge my pretentiousness and appears to play along.

"He's huge!" I say to the couple. "What breed is he?"

"He's a Maremmano."

"A what?"

"A Ma-rem-ma-no. The Italians are picky about how you pronounce it."

I look it up later: A Maremmano-Abruzzese sheepdog, a guardian to protect the sheep from wolves.

When I get back home home, I will tell Paul, our aspin, "Mas guwapo ka gihapon."

New Kindle in matcha

Nanay liked the Kindle Oasis. "You think this will help you?" I asked when I handed her the device. She tried reading a chapter of John Owen's The Glory of Christ and liked it very much—the book and the reading experience. I decided to give it to her so she can read the books she likes, in huge font sizes her eyes prefer these days. After the surgery, she sees the words more clearly, but she still likes the betters big and bold.

Generosity, in this case, gave way to material purchase. I got a Kindle, in matcha color. (The choice was practical: I tend to leave things behind, and a device is easier to find when the color isn't black and white.) I like it very much. A nimble, no-nonsense e-reading device that, in this latest iteration, responds more quickly compared to the other three Kindles I had owned. This entry-level Kindle can't be soaked in water, which isn't a problem for me because I don't read while I shower. The battery life is promising. The reviews mentioned the battery lasts for weeks, in contrast to the Oasis which I had to charge at least once a week.

I'm reading John Keeney's I See You've Called in Dead. Hilarious!