Vigeland Park on a sunny day
“How is it living here?” I ask as we make our way around the clean, organized city, her pale-skinned, six-footer, smile-back-at-you residents basking in mild sunshine, something that rarely happens in a land where the usual weather is dark and gloomy, the streets lined with snow.

He says it’s great. I think he means it. “The first time I got here was in December. You know how Christmas is in the movies? It’s like that. Snow everywhere!” he says.

I relate well to his feeling of alienation and familiarity. I felt the same way when I was in Montreaux, Switzerland in December 2019. My friendHarold and I presented a paper at an immunotherapy conference in Geneva. We did a side trip after the meeting. Snowy villages, mulled wine, potatoes—always potatoes—dripped in melted cheese and chocolate. The scene looked like a Hallmark movie. The stuff of films. It felt magical for us, people from the tropics. Christmas in the Philippines is loud and happy, colorful and extravagant, with plastic pine trees wrapped in lights that could cause fires any time.
I explain to him, as we walk around Frogner Park, at the heart of the Norwegian capital, that Gomez is a common name in our part of the world. “Richard Gomez is a popular actor,” I say. He pretends he knows Richard out of politeness.

Frogner Park is the site of the Vigelandsanlegget (Vigeland Park), an art installation by Gustav Vigeland. Jacob mentions his name with awe—the man designed the park but never got to see its completion.

The Vigeland Sculpture Park contains 212 bronze and granite sculptures depicting the circle of life. I don’t ask Jacob about the Elton John song in the Lion King, because I'm unsure if El Rey León was a hit in his childhood. I say to him instead, “It’s beautiful, isn't it?” pointing to the sculptures of naked men and women and children doing all sorts of poses, and seeing tourists hold the Angry Child’s hand for photo ops.

He says, “I can’t believe I’m doing this, that I’m here.” He radiates contentment, a happy disbelief that I often aspire to, and which sometimes escapes me. “Oslo is a beautiful city. I’m just so happy to be here.”
I listen to the tone of his voice, and I realize he’s not faking it. Here’s a man who is happy in what he does. He must have done these tours a hundred times, but he is happy.
Labels: photography, travel










